It’s Dry Outside—Do I Need to Humidify?

It’s Confusing!
Part 1 of a Two Part Article
By Dan Kilgore

(Disclaimer: The following is based on the experiences of a fellow HW resident. I am not an engineer or professional tradesman. These are just my observations.)

Well, we’re all proud owners of brand new homes here in Hickory Woods. That’s the good news. However, we are still in New England, with all the crazy weather, and our new homes all have brand new concrete foundations and basement floors, and that concrete is still wet! I’ve been told it takes years to thoroughly dry out. And I do know that in my old house, which had a very dry basement, I had to run a dehumidifier from May until October — for the entire 30 years I lived there. But during the winter, I found it better to add humidity, at least in the upstairs living area. It’s best look at each issue separately. In this two part article, we will first address the need to eliminate the dryness; i.e.: to Humidify. (Come spring, watch for Part Two: How to Get Rid of the Dampness; i.e.: to Dehumidify.)

HUMIDIFY
Most experts agree that keeping your cold weather relative humidity in your home’s living area between 30% and 50% is good, with the ideal target of 40%-45%. The following is excerpted from Houselogic.com (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/air-quality/humidity-home-hygrometer/)

Household humidity: too little of it and you’ll zap your dog with an arcing blue spark when you touch his nose; too much and your carpet starts sprouting mushrooms. Equipped with a hygrometer to measure humidity, you can assess your needs and choose from a wide variety of tools for controlling household humidity.

Size up your personal discomfort level
Your own discomfort is the first clue to an improper humidity level. Here are symptoms to watch for:
• dry skin, chapped lips
• static cling; sparks zap your fingertips when you touch metal or damp objects
• irritated nose and throat

Look for your house’s symptoms
The amount of moisture in the air doesn’t only affect humans; your house may be suffering too. Here are signs to look for:
• Dust buildup   
• Dried-out, loose furniture joints
• Moldings, such as baseboards and crown moldings, separate at joints
• Squeaky floors and stairs

How to check your household humidity

A simple instrument called a hygrometer, or a Humidity Monitor measures the amount of water in the air in terms of relative humidity (RH). Home Depot sells an electronic one, made by ACU-RITE for under $20. Locate your hygrometer in a living area away from the moisture produced by the kitchen or a bathroom. And then come summer, move it to the cellar for the season.

For maximum heating effectiveness and comfort, humidity levels should be between 30% and 50%. In the summer, a maximum of 55% is tolerable. Anything under 30% or over 60% will be uncomfortable and potentially damaging to your home.

Countering dry air

Overly dry air has a chilling effect because it boosts the cooling power of normal perspiration. Get your humidity level right and you can dial down the thermostat a few degrees and feel just as warm. You’ll boost your heating energy efficiency by 1% for every degree you dial down — a sizeable cost savings over the course of the winter.

Options for increasing humidity include:
• You can boost the comfort in a living area or bedroom with a portable humidifier. Cost: $27–$181. A note of caution here: Consumer Reports is fairly critical of most of these units because without regular (daily?) cleaning, they can harbor and spread mold, mildew, and allergens.
• Add a whole-house humidifier to your furnace. It comes with a built-in humidistat that automatically cues the unit to produce the right amount of moisture. Some systems include an outdoor sensor that factors in air temperature. Steam versions are the most effective, but some engineers caution about higher maintenance and the possibility of rusting over time. Cost: $600–$1,200, installed. I recently purchased a GeneralAire Model 1000 Elite *on Amazon for $240, and paid about $400 for the installation. And this is an evaporative model – not steam. (No, I didn’t use our HVAC installer, Roberts Air, because they broke too many appointments and were unavailable.) If you’re reasonably handy, you could probably install it yourself, but most of these units’ warrantees require professional installation. (* I chose the General Air model after doing extensive research on different models and manufacturers, the maintenance is simple and only annual, and fact that it was the top-rated unit for 2015 according to a large HVAC professional organization. And it’s working like a charm!)

Stay warm — or cool— but stay hydrated!
That’s about all I can add. Maybe now I can get back to that relaxing retirement in our new home (after I finish off the rest of the “Honey-Do” list!)
If you have any questions, shoot me an e-mail at dankilgore@comcast.net, or stop by for a chat.
And watch for Part 2 – Dehumidifying Your Home, coming in the spring!